Different face shapes and Contouring with Sarah

In this lesson we discussed different face shapes which included Diamond, heart, Oval, Oblong, Triangular, Rectangular, Round and Square shaped faces.

We discussed different bone structure and that different people will need to contour in different ways. For example, for a wider forehead you would contour the sides to make it appear more narrow and for a longer forehead you would contour the top to make it appear shorter. We discussed catwalk looks and editorial looks. Editorial looks tend to be lighter and more glossy as they show up differently up close on camera. Whereas catwalk looks are heavier and deeper. Sarah showed us a demo on the same model doing catwalk on one half and editorial on the other. She also showed us how to rightly contour a nose by creating little shadow.

Here is a picture of Sarahs Demo. She even created the eye look and also filled in the brows and lips.

Editorial Side

Concealer applied with light movement and little product

Face and body Foundation by mac (fine, natural and blowy) using a light fluffy brush and circular motions to create a seamless look

Little contour; minimal colour, light and barely visible.

3 shades lighter for a highlight, using just a foundation. Used to slim down nose and some on the forehead to brighten the look.

Using the Ben nye wheel for blush and applying it with your finger with minimal product and pressure.

Eyeshadow- light colour first followed by a darker brown on the outer corners of the eyes with light pressure

Eye brows - Angled brush with a little product (using powder for a softer look)

Mascara - Using a fan brush and some mascara on the brush to really get into the lashes

Lips - Sprayed IPA on lip pencil (Spice by mac) to disinfect and then sharpened it followed by using a light lip colour which is similar to the blush.

No setting powder as for the editorial look we want a glow

Catwalk side

Strobe cream mixed with foundation (mac full coverage)

Makeup forever hd translucent powder to set the foundation

Warm matte bronzer for contour, defining jaw using minimal product and building it up.

Warm pink powder to highlight cheekbones in a C shape using light movement

Using a mocha pink for blush going along side the contour (lower than the editorial look to further define the contour)

Same technique used for the eye shadow & colours but applying it stronger following the natural eye shape using a powder puff not to mess the face

Topped up with a metallic colour in the centre of the eye lid to make it pop/

Eyebrows - Using a pencil and powder for a deeper look

Finally for the lips, lined with the same spice line however coloured in with it too.

We were able to choose one of the looks. I chose to do the catwalk look however we did not have much time and I was only able to somewhat finish half of the face which did not include the eyes and lips. It was my first time working on a dark skin tone. I found it very challenging to match my models skin colour as she has a very original undertone. I mixed macs face and body N5 and macs full coverage NC 50 to achieve her colour. I contoured using Ben byes powder in the shade Dark cocoa and I highlighted in the shade sienna. For brows I used the Impeccable brow liner by Mac in the dark brown shade. I then used a lip colour for a blush by mac in the shade Creme de la Femme.

I enjoyed creating this look even though it was challenging as it helped me become more creative and it was different to what I would usually do. Here is my final look :